Memo To Sweet Melissa: Next Time, Ask Our "Afro-Brazilian" Chef ...

WHETHER HE MAKES A GOOD FEIJOADA. That's the ultimate test for any Brazilian chef. Of course, there's a catch: Only Brazilians can judge a great Feijoada from a simply good one, or a terrible caricature of one. Ex-pat Brazilians can't be choosers, depending also on one's location. Mostly, "good" is about as good as it gets.